Monday, August 27, 2007
As we arrived home safely in New York, I wanted to thank both of you for your help in making the trip a very successful one for all of us, and to pass along some of the highlights (as well as some of the areas where you might consider changes).
First, I cannot thank you enough for introducing us to Ahmed. He is a gem, and he made the trip special. By the time we left, we considered him more as a friend than as a guide and a driver. We would recommend him to anyone who wants to visit Morocco. He is really worth his weight in gold. The trip would not have been half as pleasant without him.
Second, we were generally very happy with the accommodations. The Riad Calipou in Marakech was spectacular in every way, and we thought the Mimouna in Essaouira was also exceptionally nice. We had a great time at I Rocha in the Atlas Mountains; the people were very nice and the setting was gorgeous. The only warning I would give prospective guests is that the rooms can be very hot in the summer despite cool breezes outside the rooms, and the absence of screens brought flies into the rooms. The Kasbah Lamrani was also excellent, and the Zalagh in Fes was more than acceptable, although it had less of a distinctive Moroccan flavor.
Third, the overnight in the desert was unforgettable, and even in the heat of summer, I wouldn't have missed it. Sleep was in short supply because of the heat, but frankly, we talked to some other guests at the Dunes D'Or who had slept there instead of the desert, and who indicated that the Auberge itself was unbearably hot the night we went out. So it's not as if one could avoid the heat by staying in town.
The itinerary itself was just about right. We found the country enchanting, and we didn't feel too rushed, nor did we feel the need to spend more time in any one place.
Now let me turn to the minor disappointments -- areas where you might do better, or at least provide better advice. First, the guides. We did pretty well in Volubilis and in Tinghir, where Ahmed found guides for us. The guide in Fes started out OK, but when it became clear that we were not eager to spend all of our time shopping for rugs, he became more detached and colder. I don't think we missed anything critical, but it would have been nicer to have a better overview of local history, and less focus on merchants. The guide in Marakech was a disaster; he had no interest in anything other than making sure we spent money at designated shops. Indeed, one time, he dropped us off at a shop,and was nowhere to be found when we emerged (apparently, we had signaled out lack of interest in the merchandise more quickly than he had anticipated). The tour ended quite abruptly before noon, and Ahmed largely filled in the gaps, so we didn't feel at too much of a loss, but I think it would be a mistake to ever use that guide again.
Second, we were somewhat disappointed with the food in some of the hotels. We had a few excellent meals (particularly at the Maison Bleu, and at a restaurant in Marakech recommended by Ahmed). We were very glad that we opted not to take meals at the hotels in Fes and Marakech, and were sorry we hadn't made the same decision in Essaouira and Casablanca. Especially at those hotels, the food was mediocre, with very little choice, and very little Moroccan flavor (Maybe the hotels offered better fare to other customers, but the "agency menu" was very limited). I would suggest that you offer packages with breakfast only for clients who are interested in exploring Moroccan cuisine. You might be able to keep the base price down that way -- offering an option of dinners at the hotel for clients who are not very interested in or adventurous about food. [Of course, in places like I Rocha, taking food at the hotel makes sense, and the food there was fine]. At the same time, you might make recommendations of exceptional restaurants for clients interested in really exploring the country's cuisine.
These, of course, are minor issues. We thoroughly enjoyed the trip, and you did a great job in putting it together. Thanks again.
SS July 2007
Labels: Morocco Testimony


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